Apparel Terminology

Abrasion Resistance

The ability of a fabric to withstand loss of appearance or surface through surface wear or rubbing.

Acrylic

(Fiber) Generic name for man made fibers derived from polyacrylonitrile. Features a soft , woolly hand ; wash and wear performance ; brilliant high shade colors ; good sunlight and wrinkle resistance.

Air Jet Spinning

During Air Jet Spinning yarn is made by wrapping fibers around a core stream of fibers with compressed air. In this process , the fibers are stretched to the appropriate size , then fed to the air jet chambers where they are twisted , first in one direction , then in the reverse direction in a second chamber. The yarn is stabilized after each operation.

Yarn produced on Air Jet pills less because the spinning process creates a tighter outer wrap which holds typically loose polyester fibers (experienced in Open End Spinning) in place. Fewer loose polyester fibers means less pilling.

Argyle

A popular design for knitted fabrics, both hand and machine knit. Two or three colors generally are used in a diamond-shaped pattern.

Banded

Fabric is folded double and sewn down. Refers to tee shirt collars and staff shirt sleeves

Basketweave

A variation of a plain weave in which two or more yarns weave alike in both the warp(Vertical) and Filling (Horizontal) directions. The name probably derives from the similarity to basket work structures. The weave produces a rather LOOSE construction.

Berber

A texture very similar to Sherpa, but with a heavier, more woolen texture - used for Outerwear

Bird's-eye

A pattern that resembles a bird’s eye.

Buckram backing

Stiff fabric used to give shape and form to items like caps, belts, etc. Also used to stabilize embroidery, edges.

Burguntal Cloth

Constructed from 100% nylon. This durable base fabric has a water repellent finish applied to the face, which prevents water drops from soaking into the nylon.The back is coated with Polyurethane for added water resistance and wind protection.

Byron Collar

Collar with large points and not much of a roll; named after the English poet Lord Byron.

Cap Sleeves

Sleeve type used mainly in ladies styles but is also used in unisex styles. Standard tee sleeve length is approximately to the elbow. Cap sleeves would fall midway between the elbow and the shoulder.

Carded Cotton

Yarn that has been cleaned, aligned and formed into a continuous untwisted strand but has NOT gone through additional spinning processes like combing or ringspinning.

Carding

Preliminary process in yarn spinning. Fibers are separated and made into more parallel-untwisted strand called SLIVERS. This process also removes most of the impurities and a certain amount of short or broken fibers.

Center line/ Center Crease

Helps line up garment for screenprint or embroidery.Disadvantage - if line is not actually centered,it is more difficult to center logo.

Chevron

A zigzag stitch VERY similar to Herringbone

Colorfast

A term used to describe fabrics of sufficient color retention so that no noticeable changes in shed takes place during the “normal” life of the garment.

Constructed

Crown of a cap has Buckram to give the cap shape even when it is not being worn.

Coolmax

Certification mark of the Dupont Company, for knitted fabrics made of POLYESTER fibers that are grooved on the outside to facilitate better wicking and moisture evaporation.

Cordura®

Trademark of Dupont Company, for air-textured nylon yarn.

Core Vents

Efficiently dissipate excess body heat and perspiration vapor.

Cotton

Cotton is named for a shrubby plant (genus Gossypium) of the MALLOW family, for the fibers surrounding the seeds, and for the cloth woven from the spun fibers. Each of the seeds, which are contained in capsules, or bolls, is surrounded by white or cream-colored downy fibers that flatten and twist naturally as they dry. Cotton is tropical in origin but is now cultivated worldwide. It has been spun, woven, and dyed since prehistoric times.

Coverseaming/Coverstitching

Two needles to overlap the threads underneath, reinforcing the seams with a smooth layer of threads. (looks similar to double needle stitching)

Crocking

The tendency of excess dyes to rub off. Napped a pile fabrics in deep colors are most likely to crock. Industry has set standards and tests to measure and prevent crocking. With the PIGMENT dye process this can occur if the garment is NOT washed before worn.

CrossWinds

Lightweight wind protection. CrossWinds shells are extremely packable and compressible.

Denier

Is to polyester as Singles is to cotton, however with Denier, the SMALLER the number of denier the THINNER the strand of polyester and the LARGER the number the THICKER the strand of polyester. (This is the OPPOSITE of singles.)

Dobby

When weaving fabric - geometric shapes are woven into the weaving pattern.

DryPoint ™ Semi-Oxford

A modified basket weave of 100% Nylon coated with Ether-based Poly Urethane. Extremely durable and absolutely waterproof.

End-On-End

An alternating color or striped effect.

Enzyme Wash

A fabric softening process that gives a soft hand to fabric and wears the color VERY slightly. Does NOT have a washed out look like PIGMENT DYE.

Four-needle stitching

Used to reinforce the waistband in shorts and sweatpants.

French Placket

Is to woven shirts as a set-on placket is to staff shirts.

Glen Plaid

Popular Scottish pattern for sportswear characterized by checks of two different sizes with similar color patterns. Made in many grades of fabric.

Graded Collar

The size of the collar changes proportionally with the size of the shirt.

Greige (Gray) Goods

Knitted or woven fabrics of all fibers in an unfinished state, after they have been woven and before dyeing or finishing.

Grommet

An eyelet of firm material (ex: Metal) to strengthen or protect an opening.

Gusset

Insert (as in the sleeve seam or side panel - Crossgrain crew) to widen and strengthen.

Hand

The “feel” of a fabric or print.

Heather

Blended fibers combined to create a vari-colored effect; e.g. heather gray. Heathered fabric typically contains 3 fibers: cotton, polyester or rayon. In any of the garments that ALPHA carries an ASH or BIRCH or Heather Grey, Steel Grey, Light Steel, etc. (The name may vary per mill) these colors are NEVER 100% Cotton. Another fiber MUST be added with the cotton in order to achieve the necessary color. PLEASE NOTE: If a fabric contains 95% cotton it can be LEGALLY labeled 100% cotton, however, the mills that ALPHA carries will state the proper content on the garment label for these colors.

HyventMicro Failleweave

A 100% coated Nylon flat ribbed fabric that is waterproof, windproof and very breathable with excellent abrasion and durability characteristic. Treated with a Durable Water Repellant finish to shed water.

Interlock

Double knit construction makes this the heaviest of the 3 knits.Similar to a Jersey knit except both front and back of the fabric look identical.Interlock is the tightest weave, gives the smoothest surface and the finest hand.

Jacquard

A design or pattern in the fabric and/or collar

Kangaroo Pocket

A large front single pocket, with side openings allowing both hands to be inserted, meeting in the Middle.(See Also muff pocket)

Kasha lining

A lining principally for jackets featuring cotton flannel, napped face and imitation chambray back

Knapping

Refers to the inside of a fleece garment. Garment fabric brushed with a wire brush to give a very soft hand.

Kodel

Polyester fiber created and trademarked by Eastman Kodak Co.

Lisle (Yarn)

Refers to type of yarn. This type of yarn has a soft hand is a very fine count (singles) and is 2 ply.

Low Profile